The original version of this article, posted in Horn Articles Online probably around the year 2000 (!), had the subtitle “Don’t try this at home.” But before getting to that older article, a few thoughts on cut bells.
Not long ago, this was a polarizing topic
One of the questions asked in a 1982 survey done by my ASU predecessor Ralph Lockwood related to attitudes toward cut bells. The overall survey was on right hand position, and is a very interesting snapshot of past times compared to today. But there was also a question on cut bell horns and, in short, some respondents were very opposed to them.
Talking with some older players over the years, I know that for some when the bell was cut the big issue was an instrument lost some of the “magic” or “soul” it had. And honestly, I’d personally be VERY hesitant to cut the bell of some vintage Geyer or Kruspe for example, you might not like the results — and you really can’t go back.
However, higher end horns today are almost always made with cut (or screw) bells. Makers take the cut bell into consideration in the overall design of their horn; there really is no downside as to how it sounds or plays. Plus, you have the ability to travel better with a more sensible case. You need a cut bell!
Should I have my bell cut? What kind of ring?
To the topic of if you should have the bell cut on an existing horn, the big question I would ask is this: is this horn really worth doing this to? Because, if it’s basically a student model horn, you will probably be better off buying a new or different horn of a better quality that already has a cut bell. Alternatively, if it is a highly collectible older horn, I’d also be hesitant to do it, especially if the cut will ruin the engraving. Being aware, also, that if it is a lacquered horn, the lacquer will be lost in the area of the repairs.
As to what kind of ring to use, Alexander or Alexander compatible rings dominate the market. But be aware that there are multiple ring designs in use, of different diameters and thread. Paxman rings are larger, Yamaha smaller, Schmid has a different thread, etc. They are not all compatible. For additional perspectives on all these topics see:
How to cut a bell
The remainder of this article is my 2000 (approx., it was not dated) Horn Articles Online article. Versions of this were re-printed (years ago!) in IHS regional horn newsletters for Arizona, Iowa, and New England. It is reposted here with the 2025 demise of Horn Articles Online.
This is very much in the “don’t try this at home” category, but as my students often ask how bells are cut I know there is interest in seeing how this is done.
My Doctoral program at Indiana University had a requirement that I have two minor fields and I was lucky enough to be able to design a special minor in Brass Instrument Design and Construction to fulfill part of this requirement, working closely with the well-known natural horn maker and player Richard Seraphinoff. Besides making a natural horn with his help that really turned out quite well (thank you Rick!), and also making several lead pipes on his mandrels (one I made is actually mounted on the horn illustrated below), I also was able, with Rick in the shop to double check my work, cut the bell on my Yamaha 667.
First, the photo.
The short version of the process is this. You first take the bell/bell tail as a unit completely off the horn. This requires unsoldering several braces and the joint between the bell tail and the first branch. The next step is the most critical; the male ring is soldered on the bell and must be absolutely perfectly lined up. I used Alexander rings. After it is solidly soldered on you use a saw (next to the lead pipe in the photo) and carefully cut the bell to separate the bell from the bell tail. If you are at all squeamish you won’t want to see the cut in progress. The photo above was taken just after cutting the bell. Next the female ring is soldered on the now free bell tail and the horn reassembled. The process is in a sense quite straightforward repair work, but much care must be exercised, and it does take at least a day of solid work in a very well equipped shop to accomplish.
I later actually cut the bells on two other horns I owned, but I have now officially retired from cutting bells! This really is a job for a pro. I have an immense respect for those craftsmen who make horns; it is truly an art.
In terms of playing qualities, I have found that either the horn felt essentially the same or perhaps better after cutting the bell. I have not personally noted any negative results in the playing qualities of cut bell instruments. If you are considering having your bell cut it could be a great investment. It certainly makes travel easier. But don’t cut that bell yourself!
