Home Blog Page 78

Hornmasters: Berv and Reynolds on Slurs

Continuing our look at slurs, Berv and Reynolds have some important things to add on the topic.

Leverage and tongue arch

For Harry Berv in A Creative Approach to the French Horn the concept of “leverage” was essential to a good slur.

In making a slur on the horn, the airflow must be even so that the lips will be in a constant state of vibration. Should the airstream become uneven, the lips will not vibrate correctly and the upper note will pop out.

Think in terms of leverage when slurring. When executing a wide interval slur, a slight thrust of air should be applied to the first note, and this will assist in making the upper note speak easily. The only note that is attacked in any slur is the initial one. The last note is never attacked; it should be tied to the initial note by a gracefully executed arch. A slur in either direction is difficult to perfect. Control of lip and air must be practiced slowly and intelligently in order to achieve proper results.

Berv-Creative-Approach-HornBerv does recommend that the tongue arch up slightly in the upper range and be in a lower position in the low register as an aid to slurs. He thinks of it in terms of the tongue “changing the size of the channel in the mouth.” He describes a coordination of the embouchure, tongue, and air column with the key action of the valves. He continues

The next step will clarify what I referred to at the beginning of this chapter concerning leverage. The Bb horn is now brought into use. With its shorter tubing, and in combination with the F horn, it helps greatly in producing a beautiful, even slur.

In the exercise that follows he demonstrates that slurs may be made more easily through fingering choices by “cutting in” the Bb horn.

The topic of slurs as phrase markings, and making good musical choices

As a composer Verne Reynolds in The Horn Handbook takes on with slurring the larger, musical topic of slurs as phrase markings—some notes certainly should be tongued within slurred passages.

Musicians agree that a slur is a curved line placed under or over a group of notes to indicate that those notes should be played smoothly. The tongue is used to begin the first note and may be used within the slur somewhat in the same way a violinist changes the direction of the bow, providing its use does not violate the spirit of smoothness. In other slurred phrases the tongue is not used again after the first note. Within the curved line may be dots, dashes, accents, and even sforzando and forte piano, all of which require the use of the tongue. The same curved line can indicate phrase length and possible breathing places. A slur could be called a phrase boundary when it encloses many notes. Within the boundary there can be several tongued notes added to adorn the phrase and to give it shape and definition. Seldom are these articulations used to separate the smaller units within the phrase. A composer occasionally, and intentionally one hopes, includes silence within the phrase boundary, thus offering the player an opportunity to employ the elegance of tapered release and non-accented reentry. A brass player cannot succeed without being able to connect notes without using the tongue, or without a complete assortment of tongue strokes to articulate notes within a legato phrase.

Repetition produces results

As to playing slurs, the key for Reynolds was “continuity of lip vibrations.” He notes that in for example a two-octave slur

…the embouchure must know how the second note sounds and feels while it is producing the first note. Fast wide slurs are difficult because the embouchure has little time to predict the feel of the second note while we are playing the first note. Yes, we can think while we play. Not to think is to shoot at an unheard and unfelt target. Here is another case in which thoughtful repetition produces results.

Continue in Hornmasters Series

Mini-Reviews: Now and Then, The Chicago Symphony Brass

0

The legendary brass section of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra has recently released a new recording –  Chicago Symphony Brass Live – and it is one worth a listen.

The program stems from a live concert in December 2010, which reviewer Michael Cameron has written:

… for classical music lovers around the world, nothing means brass like the justly vaunted virtuosi of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.

The recording features arranged and transcribed works by Gabrieli, William Walton and J.S. Bach, as well as symphonic works arranged for brass and percussion by Silvestre Revueltas (Sensemayá) and Prokofiev (Three Scenes from Romeo and Juliet). Percy Grainger’s Lincolnshire Posy is transcribed by San Francisco Symphony trombonist Timothy Higgins.

My favorite selection has to be Revueltas’ Sensemayá.

I have fond memories of this piece from my very first rehearsal as an associate principal with the Mexico City Philharmonic. From the opening bars – featuring a dynamically played tuba solo – the energy and drive of the enduring 7/8 rhythm persists and builds to a final climax.

The entire album is available through a variety of outlets – I bought mine via iTunes on my iPhone. My only major complaint with this album is the lack of program notes.

At least with the iPhone download, I did not get any digital program notes. This was disappointing to say the least.

The Gabrieli album

A classic recording from over 40 years ago is one that every brass player should own.

Titled The Antiphonal Music of Gabrieli, this recording set the benchmark for every large brass recording that has been produced ever since. It combines the forces of the brass sections from Chicago, Philadelphia and Cleveland – an epic event that I doubt will ever be repeated any time soon.

The legendary orchestral horn players from this era that we think about – Dale Clevenger, Myron Bloom and Mason Jones  – are all on this album. I would venture to guess that between this classic album and the CSO’s new release, Mr. Clevenger is most likely among the few common denominators.

In 1996 this album was digitally remastered to make it sound even better! If you have not heard this album it is available for under $10 at Amazon.com.

Buy it now.

A Limited Edition Tanglewood Plate with Mellophone

To fill up wall space and personalize my home office, I like to collect various horn-related items to adorn the walls. While some people like to collect horns or horn texts, I like to find unusual items with French horns in them that work as wall ornaments.

Regular readers may already know of a few items I have written about previously:

A few years ago my sister-in-law found this bright blue plate at a consignment shop while out shopping with my wife. The plate is enameled with a high-gloss coating and painted on its surface is a classic right-handed mellophone.

Click on the image below for a closer look.

On the reverse side is information on this item and its limited edition number.

It is not a extraordinary item by any means, but as one part of a growing collection it is a nice splash of color on the wall – sort of a blue plate special.

Buying a Horn: The Question of New or Used, Factory or Custom or Upgraded

0

Buying a horn there are a lot of questions to weigh and consider, especially for the more advanced player. Regular readers know that I have been tossing elements of these questions around for years in articles here in Horn Matters; the focus of this article will be on the central topics of new and used horns and factory, custom, or upgraded horns, with a focus on the double horn.

Looking for a new horn?

For many years, until the late 1960s roughly, a professional could actually order a new horn from a local music store and reasonably expect to receive a horn that played and sounded great. With that statement I am primarily thinking of the classic Elkhart Conn 8D, but they were not alone in the market in that day.

Today however stock model factory horns from standard band instrument lines are not seriously considered by professional horn players, at least not without modification. Why this is eventually relates to sound but also the mechanical side of the horn. A pro wants a horn with great valves that sounds and plays great as well, and that great sound is driven by a great bell and a great leadpipe. What happens though is in a factory environment they are geared toward making horns for students and school orders that are rugged and sell at a low price. As a result the instruments are made more heavily (to not dent easily) and some precision is lost in critical areas like the lead pipe, first branch, and general quality of assembly.

This has led to an increased demand for used vintage horns, custom horns, and upgraded horns (tweaked with new leadpipes and other adjustments) that address the needs of the professional and higher end market. Certainly among working professionals there has been a strong trend away from factory horns, especially from traditional band instrument makers, and toward custom horns or horns from smaller production shops who aim for that higher end, professional market.

A playing test confirms

In our second studio class of the semester this fall at Arizona State I wanted to look at this topic in more depth with the studio. First, I had them read the “Kruspe or Geyer” article I posted a few months ago and also I borrowed for testing purposes five horns to bring to class, in alphabetical order a Conn Vintage 8D (recent production — more here), a Hoyer G-10, a Lewis (about 15 years old), a Schmid double, and a Willson custom Geyer. To those we added in an Eastlake Conn 8D, a Hoyer 6800 series horn in brass, and a Yamaha 667 from studio members.

In the first portion of class I did the playing and for testing purposes I focused on two passages from the Romanze of Willy Burkhard which will be featured on an upcoming recital. What I was looking for was a lot of contrast; the opening passage is soft and lyric with slurs across harmonics and fingerings, and the passage at the bottom of page 1 is articulated, loud, and goes from the lower into the upper register.

In a way some of the differences between the horns were small and difficult to describe in words but yet they were also really easy to hear in the room. Some had that “pro sound” and others did not quite have it. You could tell clearly that there was an audible difference between how they each came across for tone color and articulations.

So try some horns yourself!

Then in class students got to try the horns themselves, like at a horn workshop sales area. One thing that was really striking for me was how from the playing side of it the studio LOVED the Schmid. It really is in a separate galaxy in terms of playing qualities, a very light horn with some very distinctive characteristics that you can’t quite conceptualize without playing on one. But I liked all of the horns actually to varying degrees. Each one hits the room differently and has a different feel both in your hands and in terms of playing qualities.

The Results?

To give a bottom line on this whole experiment, overall it reinforced a thought that I have had more and more often in recent years, that the most commercially viable sound type today in the USA is the type of sound produced by a custom Geyer type horn. Custom horns of all types do lead the pack, but you can get other models of horn to hit that general level where they begin to really sound professional with upgrades. A couple stock model horns get really close to having the sound but most are not quite there even in the hands of a fine player.

Be very aware, too, that the custom Geyer is a very “American” approach and probably won’t work well overseas, and speaking generally Kruspe type horns are not used much outside the USA either and are not a great choice if you plan to play in orchestras outside the USA. Right or wrong, those are the facts, borne out by for example the list of what horns professionals around the world use, linked from this article. Above all you want to be seen as a player that fits in and does not stick out.

I have been thinking about a change of horns for a few years and I was anticipating, going into this, that I would likely be looking at upgrading a stock model horn to get personally back toward that custom Geyer sound (something I did some years ago to a Yamaha 667). It is a big topic to consider carefully in relation to your budget and goals.

UPDATE (2017):

To the above I would simply add this. Over time my feeling is that I am less and less in favor of upgrading an existing horn. Speaking generally, you will be better off looking for a better horn from a higher quality level, especially with so many now out on the market.

Recorded Memories from Wayne Barrington

Today’s selection of videos come from a single source. These are all conversations with the late Wayne Barrington, posted on a YouTube channel created by jalobak.

This first video is a fascinating look into the early years of musician unions in America.

* * *

Wayne Barrington reminisces about his teacher Willem Valkenier.

* * *

A look into the story behind the Schmutzig book.

* * *

More videos featuring Wayne Barrington memories can be found here.

[Extracted from a “Random Monday” post, 2021, JE]

Ask Dave: What technician hath joined together, let no player put asunder

0

Joining metal parts is critical for making and repairing your instrument, but most players don’t know the terminology or the reasons for each type of joint.

The soldered joint

Soldering is joining metal parts by applying heat and flowing solder into that joint.  Solder is an alloy of metals that melt at a lower temperature than the work pieces.  When the alloy cools and crystallizes it forms a bond between surfaces.]

Soft solder is just that, a fairly soft alloy of metals which often contains lead and tin.  A soft solder joint is appropriate for joining fairly large surfaces that don’t take heavy forces or shocks.  A shock can break the soft solder.

Hard solder, or bearing solder, contains metals that have higher tensile strength, and is often used for small surface area joints that support shearing forces, such as water key saddles.  Bearing solder is used more and more in instrument construction because it does not contain lead.

The brazed joint

Brazing (not braising) is a high temperature process that is accomplished very much like soldering, but with much higher temperatures and with elemental or alloyed metal that has extremely high tensile strength, such as thin silver wire.  Brazing is done where the joint has to be extremely strong, sometimes stronger than the component parts.  Sheet metal will often be brazed at a joint, as will nickel parts such as key levers.

The welded joint

Welding is an extremely high temperature process, usually done between parts of the same elemental metal, that actually melts the two surfaces and fills the joint with the molten material and filler.  Welding is rarely used in instrument repair.  It is most often done during fabrication, such as in joining sheet metal to form tubes.  A welded joint is permanent and is as strong as the component parts.

Most often your repair technician will solder parts together.  But, no matter which process is used surface preparation is absolutely critical to a good bond.  A broken joint that is simply reheated to allow the solder to flow again is not likely to be a permanent joint.

Oxidized solder, dirt, and oil can all inhibit a good, strong bond.  If you have a solder joint that breaks repeatedly your tech has to ascertain the forces pulling the joint apart, and to re-assemble the part appropriately to prevent further failures.

Your technician should always know both how and why to form the proper joint between parts.

Mouthpieces: To anneal or not anneal?

0

That is the question I have been asking myself in practice sessions in the last month.

My wheel of doom.

Sweet fit.

I own two nearly identical copies of a Moosewood Cartouche D6 model. One is annealed and the other is not. It is part of my mouthpiece wheel-of-doom since the Patterson update.

For the past year or so, I have been using the un-annealed version simply because of its aesthetic fit into the horn. Lately though I am preferring the annealed version because the sound is so much more lively.

This may or may not coincide with my recent upgrade to abalone-embedded valve caps but I am not sure.

I tried to ask Mr. Pickles, but all he did was get annoyed with me.

[Extracted from a “Random Monday” post, JE, 2021]

What is a Compensating Triple?

0

Once I was talking to someone and I described my compensating triple as being sort of a super single B-flat horn. But there is a lot more to it than that, and this is a model of horn that deserves a bit more of a look. (And for an overall look at descant and triple horns see this article).

One specific type of triple horn, not as commonly used, is the compensating triple. This photo is a close up of the valve section of my Paxman. How it works is this.

  • The high F side will be as on any other triple.
  • The B-flat side also looks like the B-flat side of any other horn. It will be on top though because of the way low F is achieved.
  • The big difference is the low F side is accomplished by combing the B-flat tubing with extra tubing to make low F. This is the “compensating” part of the equation. That tubing, not very visible in the photo, is located on the “middle story” of the valves. B-flat slides on top, extra slides in middle, F alto slides on the bottom.

How this works then is for example if you push down the the first valve on the F horn air goes through the B-flat horn first valve slide AND the short valve slide in the middle. It is easier to see visually on the compensating double horn, see this article for more.

Another way to think of this, if you are familiar with lower brass, is it works just like the compensating loops on a Euphonium.

Also note if you are a bit stumped by the valve at the top in the photo it is a stopping valve. More on that here. The horn below is also a compensating triple. owned by ASU, but it is a Willson and does not have a stopping valve.

While I have seen triple horns that can only be set up to stand in B-flat, most can be set up to stand in low F or in B-flat.

The standing in B-flat can be a big negative for the average player trying on in the USA, as we are on the whole very used to horns that stand in F. Those that I have heard of making that switch, to standing in B-flat, say that it can be done in anywhere from a couple months to a couple years. But again, most of these can be set to stand in F, which will feel more at “home” for most players.

For more on this topic, if you have access to back issues of The Horn Call, see my article “The Case for the Compensating Triple,” The Horn Call 36, No. 2 (February, 2006), 86-87, or my book Playing Descant and Triple Horns (Horn Notes Edition).

Hornmasters: Yancich and Fox on the Slur, Air, and Vowels

Continuing our series on the topic of the slur, air, and vowels, Milan Yancich has an interesting angle on the “wah-wah” problem in the form of an exercise in A Practical Guide to French Horn Playing. He calls it “Line in Tone Production.” What he is looking for is the perfect portamento between notes played very slowly to “break the habit of a clicking slur or a slur pushed by the breath.”

Introducing the “clicking slur”

Farkas and Schuller in the previous article were not fans of hearing a wah-wah. Yancich however expanded the topic a bit with the inclusion of the problem of the “clicking slur.” Clicks relate to how smooth your horn goes over the harmonics and how smoothly notes pass through valve changes. Different horns will be more “clicky” than others in this respect. This short article introduces the topic further. You certainly can hear (and feel!) these clicks, and they will be helped (smoothed out) the most by factors that relate to mouthpiece choice in relation to your instrument when you get down to it. Some instruments will have more clicking slurs than others even with an optimal setup.

Why this is the case is due to acoustic transients. As background, according to the Wikipedia “In acoustics and audio, a transient is a high amplitude, short-duration sound at the beginning of a waveform that occurs in phenomena such as musical sounds, noises or speech.” This is the underlying source of the click. In a recent (2016) article on his website horn maker Jacob Medlin explains that

The best horns navigate the transients using a complex series of dampening effects to smooth the bump between the notes. This allows the player to blow through note changes either with or without depressing valves. Playing a slurred passage should require no micromanagement of the air column, it should be smooth and effortless.

More on wah-wahing and clicks

Fred Fox in Essentials of Brass Playing is clearly thinking about that same general topic of clicks as well.  After noting that the valves must move quickly in slow slurs he has a warning, and a solution.

There is another factor in smooth slurring that is worth considering. I bring it up with a strong word of caution, since it can lead to “wah wahing” each note.

There tends to be a “bump” between two notes when slurred even if they are gotten with the same valve or slide position. Let us use the example of a slur requiring a valve change, for a moment. When the valve is pressed down there is an instant when the whole instrument is blocked off. If a steady flow of vibration is being produced, then, at the moment of the valve change, the instrument is blocked, and pressure builds up behind the valve. This bit of pressures causes a sort of bump in the legato on the next note, when the valve completes the change. Ideally we should ease off the flow of vibration at the moment of valve change to avoid the pressure buildup behind the valve. This is not too impossible to achieve. Though again, one must be careful not to get the “wa, wa, wa” type of playing.

Sing a series of slurred notes. Observe, does the air flow past the vocal chords at a steady rate? Or is the air held back unconsciously, or naturally, between each note of the slur? The air is held back momentarily between each note. Sing the notes again. This time use a glissando or slide effect between each note. Now there is no air held back between each note change….

To play a smooth slur, simply apply the air technique as used when singing. Avoid building up pressure behind the valve and the slur will be much smoother. The same principle applies when slurring notes that do not require a valve or slide change.

While undoubtedly this approach might help reduce the issue, in the big picture getting a better horn, as suggested by the Medlin quote earlier in this article, would be a better solution if clicks are a problem.

More thoughts on vowel changes

As to the topic of vowel sounds, it is one Fox addresses in a variety of contexts. In this example he applies the concept primarily to the high register.

We have discussed the fact that the tongue position goes gradually to the “eee” sound in the higher registers. However, when playing in the highest possible range of the instrument, that “eee” tongue position tends to stop getting smaller as it should.

Visualize the “eee” tongue position. The back part of the tongue (that is used to pronounce the “g” in the word “get”) is up near the roof of the mouth, but the tip on the tongue still rests directly down in back of the lower teeth. Sort of like a ski slope. The vowel position can be made still small by consciously lifting the tip of the tongue towards the roof of the mouth. This lifting action now has made the sound box still smaller.

Try singing a high note with the normal “eee” tongue position. As the note is sung, bring the tip of the tongue up towards the roof of the mouth. Notice that the sound now becomes even more pinpointed. The vowel sound has been made increasingly smaller by lifting up the tip of the tongue, a most important adjustment for the very highest notes of the instrument….

Lift the tip of the tongue towards the roof of the mouth and you will find the highest notes easier to play. They will sound better in focus and will continue to contain the importantly consistent ratio of highs and lows. Remember, throughout this whole small-vowel-sound approach the throat must remain open at all times.

Open throat?

What exactly he means by the throat being open all the time is a good question, but I put it in the category of things that are a bad suggestion.

The MRI studies have also shown that the glottis (voice box) closes in every articulation. But that jumps ahead a few topics in this series, as when we return we will have more on the topics of the slur, air, and vowels.

Continue in Hornmasters Series

Ask Dave: Round for a Reason — The Bell Throat

0

Out of round conditions in the area of the bell throat, flare, and rim on a horn can be more than just unsightly or annoying.

When a customer brings in a horn for repair I do two things automatically: I stick my hand inside the bell as if I’m playing it, and I grab the bell by the throat (the area near the main bell brace) and rotate my hand around it, feeling to see if it’s round.

Bell throat

An out-of-round bell throat can make it difficult to keep a mute installed properly, or can even make it difficult to play the horn stopped. An out of round condition can deform the ring and make it difficult or impossible to screw the bell flare on or off a detachable bell horn. Creases and dents can do the same thing.

The rim of the flare can have just as serious an effect on the throat or bell ring as a dent, crease, or out of round situation. If the rim gets bent or “potato chipped”, then it can put a tremendous force on the shape of the throat and the ring.

A customer recently asked if I could replace his ring, which was severely warped. It turned out the the creases that had gotten into the flare were the cause. Once the creases were taken out, the ring was just like new. A bad, expensive repair would have been replacing the ring. A good, low cost repair was easily accomplished by reshaping the flare properly.

Have the conditions that are making your bell come out of round taken care of by a competent repair tech. Don’t try to fix them yourself.

And never, ever push a folded rim back into place yourself. The really thin metal that makes up your bell flare can be damaged badly unless it’s fixed properly. Knowing what to fix and how is critical to a good and low cost repair.