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123’s, just like ABC’s

On just about every valved brass instrument, the combination fingerings of first and third valves or all three valves together are horrifically out-of-tune.

Trumpet players on 3 valves are keenly aware of this and they kick out slides in order to compensate. Low brass players can have a few extra options – an extra valve for alternate fingerings or just easier access to pulling and pushing slides on-the-go.

Except for a few low notes, French horn players can thankfully avoid these troublesome fingerings by using alternate fingerings.

Avoidance and denial

This is something I do all the time, as I imagine most horn players do. I really can’t remember the last time in a performance where I used the “123” combination for a low D-flat. Broadly speaking, these are fingerings that can be quite easily avoided.

That being said, in a practice routine they can be incredibly useful. Looking at the characteristics of 1+3 and 1+2+3 fingerings, they are generally:

  • horribly sharp
  • stuffy
  • un-centered

Using the bad to make good

I am a huge fan of sequential practice routines.

Whether it be following a chromatic fingering pattern or the circle of fifths, using these awkward, horrible fingerings is a bit like the baseball batter who warms up using his bat and a weighted doughnut that fits around the top of the bat.

Baseball batters use these extra weights to stretch their muscles out while warming up. With lip slur patterns especially – such as in the eponymous Farkas routine – these extra patterns can have tremendous benefit.

Negotiating and perfecting stuffy, out-of-tune fingerings can make all the other notes feel that much better. Just like when the batter removes the weight from his bat, there is an element of freedom resulting from that constriction.

My tip for the day – don’t neglect your 123’s!

Understanding Stopped Horn

An early version of this article was published in the March, 2002 issue of the Texas Bandmasters Association Journal. The version here was updated in 2010, with headings added for readability and additional editing in 2025. 

Stopping the French horn is a mystery to many. Otherwise fine horn players are often quite confused as to exactly how to perform music notated to be performed with the bell stopped by the hand, with reactions similar to the following: “When you close the hand in the bell the pitch goes down–but you are telling me that the we need to finger the note a half step lower when you play stopped?”

The hand in the bell and the natural horn

A first point to consider is the question of why the right hand placed in the bell of the natural horn in the classical period. It was placed in the bell to play diatonic and chromatic passages on the horn and correct for intonation problems.

The basis of the technique of the natural horn is the harmonic series. These are the pitches that one may sound on an open tube, and are the following.

Several of these pitches are badly out of tune with equal temperament. Players discovered that by inserting the hand into the bell of the horn they could alter the pitch of the instrument for improved intonation and additional pitches, and that they could also make the tonal color darker and more mellow. This technique was known by hornists in the 1720s at the latest.

On the natural horn the technique is thought of as follows. By gradually closing the hand in the bell one can lower any sounding pitch one half step with moderate stopping, and any pitch may be lowered to a half step above the next open pitch by combining full stopping and “lipping” the note down.

Modern horn hand position relates to natural horn

Correct hand position for the modern valve horn is closely related to the general hand position used on the natural horn. While the hand in the bell does not need to be used to produce diatonic and chromatic notes today, as it was in the Classical period, the hand is still needed in the bell to maintain the proper tonal color and pitch centering of the horn and may be needed to make intonation adjustments.

Correct right-hand position to begin with is part of it

A correct basic right-hand position on the horn is a very important first element to make stopped horn work correctly. The fundamental elements of a proper right-hand position are to cup the hand slightly, as though to hold water in it, and to place it inside the bell so that the backs of the fingers touch the bell throat, allowing an opening of approximately two inches between the heel of the hand and the opposite side of the bell. A basically correct hand position can vary, but there are several issues to consider:

A correct hand position is very closely related to that which would be used on the natural horn. You should be able to open and close the throat of the bell by simply “shutting the door” with the heel of the hand. The hand should not “float” in the bell, and it should not need to be moved “in and out” of the bell to go from an open to a closed position.

One may wish to place the hand so that the thumb and first finger can support the bell when playing standing.
How open or closed the heel of the hand needs to be must ultimately be gauged by the ear. The tone should not sound like one has something stuffed into the bell (too closed), and should not sound like a trombone either (too open).

Pitch level is affected by how open or closed the bell is–an open position sharpens the horn and a closed position flattens the horn. Hand position must be consistent.

Above all, to place the hand in the bell with the palm against the inside of the throat of the bell, as is seen all too frequently in beginners, is totally incorrect. Besides having a poor, sharp tone, the playing qualities of the horn actually suffer because of the improper hand position, especially in the upper range of the instrument.

But how do I actually play stopped horn?

This leads us more directly back to our topic, how to perform stopped horn. Stopped notes are an effect unique to the horn. The basic rule often given for fingering stopped notes on the horn is to finger the note a half step below the note you want to play, close the bell tightly with the right hand, and play only on the F horn for intonation.

As you slowly close the hand in the bell the pitch will get lower. However, once the bell is TIGHTLY closed, the pitch will rise or appear to rise by approximately a half step. This is not actually what is happening acoustically (interested music educators should read the discussion in Scott Whitener, A Complete Guide to Brass, third edition, page 57) but a practical way to think of it as a performer or educator is that you are effectively shortening the horn by “cutting off” the end of the bell with the hand. It should be noted though, again, that this is not what is actually happening acoustically–actually you are lowering the next higher harmonic to a half step above the harmonic you are playing–but the result is the same as in the suggested, practical method.

The tightness of the closure of the bell is quite important; you want to seal the bell with the right hand. Just as with the natural horn you don’t want to “shove the hand in the bell;” the motion is much more like “closing a door,” with the hand as the door. A key element to achieving a tight seal for many players is the thumb. There must be no leakage around the thumb; it helps to keep the thumb to the side of the palm and first finger. Don’t allow the thumb to leave a hole. Hold the air in just like you would if you were trying to hold water in the horn bell.

A tight seal is especially important to the production of stopped notes below the staff. With a tight seal it is very possible to play stopped horn down to the bottom of the range of the horn, but when the seal is not tight the notes simply won’t come out with anything approaching the characteristic “buzzy” stopped horn sound.

If you play stopped horn on the F side of the double horn pitch will generally be close to being in tune, raised ½ step above the open notes. If you play stopped on the B-flat horn though, many notes will be nearly 3/4 of a step higher–in other words, badly out of tune. Some naturally flat fingerings are however quite usable on the B-flat side of the double horn; experimentation is very much in order when in doubt.

How about using a mute instead?

Even with correct production, stopped notes tend to lack volume and horn players may want to consider mutes.

Straight mutes are made by a number of manufacturers, and these only need to be inserted in the bell to get the proper effect–no transposition is required–but it is not a stopped horn sound.

Transposing brass stopping mutes are also manufactured to be used as a substitute for hand stopping. These do produce the correct tonal color and also allow for the production of more volume than hand stopping. With this type of mute you will need to transpose and finger, in general, the note a half step lower on the F horn for the best result.

For the player struggling with hand stopping it is important to test a stop mute to experience the way the pitch changes. I suggest playing a series of pitches such as the open harmonic series with the normal hand position and then with the stop mute. From the perspective of the player the pitch certainly seems to rise by a half step with the stop mute.

What about “half-stopping?”

There is one final stopped horn effect that should be noted–“half-stopped” notes. Sometimes called echo horn, these notes are performed by closing the bell nearly totally and fingering the notes a half step above the note you want to sound. This effect is specifically requested by some composers (such as Dukas in the well-known horn solo Villanelle [but the Chambers edition changes the notation to stopped]) to obtain a soft, distant sound, as opposed to a buzzy stopped horn sound. This is the same type of hand stopping that would be used on the natural horn as well. To finger for example a C you finger a C-sharp with your normal fingering and close the bell enough with the hand to lower the pitch to C.

The question of why

The burning question many hornists will struggle with is the question of why we think of stopping the horn the way we do on modern horn and why it works at all. The question of what exactly is happening to the pitch of the horn when stopping the bell with the hand has been the subject much study. As noted above, as the bell is closed slowly the pitch goes down but when it is closed very tightly the pitch will rise; some sources say this effect is due to acoustically cutting off the end of the horn with the hand which raises the pitch, while other sources state this is only what appears to happen, as one is actually lowering the next higher overtone to a half step above the previous pitch. While the latter approach may actually be correct, in either case, the practical reality is that stopped horn technique as it is taught today for the modern horn relies on this phenomenon, closing the bell tightly and fingering a half step below the desired pitch on the F horn. With a footnote that this approach to stopped horn technique does not appear to have seen any use before the twentieth century; the hand was always used on the natural horn to lower the pitch of the instrument when closed.

Stopping the French horn need not be a mystery. Once understood, it is easy to keep straight why when we close the bell slowly the pitch goes down but with full closure it rises or at least appears to rise a half step.

Copyright John Ericson. All rights reserved. Updated October, 2010 and May 2025

Tips for a Successful Recital Poster

8

UPDATE: 10/19/2010 – a revised graphic and final word.

This is the time of year when academic music performance majors are planning recitals.

A big factor to not to be ignored is marketing. A recital without an audience after all is a like a lone tree falling in the forest. If no one is around to hear it, did it even make a noise?

On most college campuses recital advertising is normally done with an 8.5 x 11 inch poster mounted on bulletin boards. These boards are typically a sea of activity and in creating an advertisement, a student might be tempted to pour in a great deal of information and creativity in order to stand out.

From a marketing perspective this can be a slippery slope. A messy looking recital poster can actually do more harm than good.

So what can be done to make a recital poster stand out?

If the main goal is to grab attention and entice people, it helps to look at a classic model from the advertising world.

The Ogilvy formula

David Ogilvy is a pioneer and respected force in the advertising world. When it comes to his company’s print ads, we can derive a basic, 5-step formula.

  1. Visual
  2. Caption
  3. Headline
  4. Copy
  5. Signature

Research indicates that readers typically look at these elements in this order. The best way to get people to read your recital poster is to arrange things – in this exact order from top to bottom. This formula is known in the field as the Ogilvy.

  1. Large image at the top of the page. For a photo, bleed it to the edge of the page.
  2. A headline
  3. The main ad copy. This would include all the fun music you are going to play.
  4. A signature in the lower right corner. In this case, the time, date and location of the recital.

Experimenting with margins, font and font sizes can be fun. Think about white space and a general look-and-feel. In my example above, I went for a very clean look and some dry humor.

Why this is important

Advertising is something that has been intensely researched and it certainly helps to build projects on successful models. Following guidelines from a master will give a bigger boost towards success.

Playing around with a recital poster is an important exercise in marketing, one with practical, real-world applications.

Post-graduation you might very well be involved in some kind of marketing strategy – in order to get more work, to recruit students or in order to promote some other important cause.

Devoting serious thought to a recital poster now can be an excellent introduction into a future world of entrepreneurship.

This is a tongue-in-cheek basic design which follows the classic visual, headline, copy and signature format.

Hornmasters: Brophy on Buzzing

William R. Brophy wrote Technical Studies for Solving Special Problems on the Horn (1977) during his tenure as Professor of Horn at Ohio University. He credits “Martin Morris for suggestions on some of the low register studies, Marvin Howe for his ideas on pitch bending” and “Philip Farkas for many suggestions when the manuscript was in its early stages.”

Brophy in Technical Studies presents among other things a series of buzzing exercises and was one of the first horn publications to present much on the topic. Brophy expands the technique to include mouthpiece and free buzzing.

Buzzing exercises, both without and with the mouthpiece, if properly done, can have a number of beneficial effects:

1. Buzzing the lips alone is a way of “forcing” the embouchure into the correct position, or in other words, ensuring that the embouchure is correctly formed….

2. Once this “correct” position is found, the object is to make the “playing” embouchure as much as possible like the “buzzing” embouchure with only slight adjustments, mostly a matter of relaxation of the center of the lips.

3. Lips and/or mouthpiece buzzing is a good device for strengthening the embouchure.

4. Buzzing the mouthpiece is a way of getting away from any psychological barriers on the horn by concentrating on embouchure and breath alone.

5. Buzzing exercises can be an excellent means of keeping the lip in shape during brief, or for that matter, extended vacation periods when practice on the instrument is not possible.

What should your buzz sound like?

Brophy recommends in buzzing on the horn mouthpiece a tone that is a somewhat loose and “airy” sound with a good “core” that is not at all the type of “tight pinched” buzzing that a trumpet player might produce. Also he recommends not buzzing above a written second line G on the lips alone. He suggests five to seven minutes of buzzing as a “pre-warm-up.”

Buzzing to improve accuracy

Finally, Brophy presents one other accuracy exercise also intended to be performed on the mouthpiece.

The “New Beginning” exercises are generally attributed to the late, great Arkadia Yegudkin, for many years the horn teacher at the Eastman School of Music. They are primarily accuracy exercises, designed to teach the embouchure to set quickly, indeed without preparation, for an attack. They are to be played on the mouthpiece alone, which remains on the lips throughout.

The exercises are in quarter notes at a moderate tempo. The primary element that is unusual is that you are to take a quick breath between each note and set the embouchure “as late as possible, almost simultaneously with the attack.” Brophy continues,

In order for these exercises to be effective we must insist on the exact correct pitch—just “any old note” will not do. It might be advisable to play them on the piano with one hand (even one finger!) while holding the mouthpiece with the other hand….

Once they have been mastered to some extent, the breaths between the notes can be omitted, though we should still “fake” taking a breath, opening the corners of the mouth as though a breath were being taken. In this way we can avoid becoming “loaded up” with excess air.

The “New Beginning” exercises can also be used advantageously on the horn, especially for passages where accuracy is a problem.

The cover image above is linked from the listing for this publication at Amazon.com; this classic book is easily available today through many retail sources.

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Return to the Week 4 of the Horn Pedagogy Course

Count Roland’s Oliphant of Woe

From the Wikipedia Commons

Recently I was reminded of a historic medieval French poem, The Song of Roland. Key in this poem – which is one of the oldest French manuscripts surviving today – is Roland’s horn.

It is an olifant – a medieval-era horn carved from ivory. In Roland’s case it is a horn from a mythical unicorn.

This epic poem captures a historic event – a battle between the forces of Charlemagne and the Saracens. Roland’s horn in this story is a direct signaling device to Charlemagne himself.

Ambush

Through politics and treachery, Roland and several other Paladins are lead into an enemy trap – an army of 400,000 troops. In the midst of battle, Roland’s troops beg him to blow his horn for backup.

from Stanza LXXXVIII

Roland, Roland, yet wind one blast!
Karl will hear ere the gorge be passed,
And the Franks return on their path full fast.”
“I will not sound on mine ivory horn:
It shall never be spoken of me in scorn,
That for heathen felons one blast I blew;
I may not dishonor my Lineage true.
But I will strike, ere this fight be o’er,
A thousand strokes and seven hundred more,
And my Durindana shall drip with gore.
Our Franks will bear them like vassals brave
The Saracens flock but to find a grave.”

Defeat

As defeat becomes imminent, Roland decides that he should destroy his sword and olifant, lest they fall into enemy hands. Slowly he begins to change his mind.

Stanza CXLVIII

As Roland gazed on his slaughtered men,
He bespake his gentle compeer agen:
“Ah, dear companion, may God thee shield!
Behold, our bravest lie dead on field!
Well may we weep for France the fair,
Of her noble barons despoiled and bare.
Had he been with us, our king and friend!
Speak, my brother, thy counsel lend,
How unto Karl shall we tidings send?”
Olivier answered, “I wist not how.
Liefer death than be recreant now.”

The horn

Apparently the topic of calling for backup is a weighty issue of knightly chivalry. Finally Roland succumbs and blows his horn.

Then to his lips the horn he drew,
And full and lustily he blew.
The mountain peaks soared high around;
Thirty leagues was borne the sound.
Karl hath heard it, and all his band.
“Our men have battle,” he said, “on hand.”
Ganelon rose in front and cried,
“If another spake, I would say he lied.”

Karl (Charlemagne) hears the signal. Roland’s horn-blowing though has deadly consequences.

With deadly travail, in stress and pain,
Count Roland sounded the mighty strain.
Forth from his mouth the bright blood sprang,
And his temples burst for the very pang.
On and onward was borne the blast,
Till Karl hath heard as the gorge he passed,

That’s right. His head explodes.

On Roland’s mouth is the bloody stain,
Burst asunder his temple’s vein;
His horn he soundeth in anguish drear;
King Karl and the Franks around him hear.
Said Karl, “That horn is long of breath.”
Said Naimes, “‘Tis Roland who travaileth.

A true horn player’s death I must say.

IMAGE:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oliphant

The Retronome

In my office you will find me using on a daily basis this “antique” metronome which students I have heard sometimes refer to as the retronome. It isn’t that old, my parents gave it to me in high school! It is still pretty accurate and I like not only the “natural” sound of the mechanical action (not an electronic beeping sound–I can take those in small does but over days of lessons one after another the beeping would make me nuts) but also it is easy on the eye; the case (as is clearly noted on a label on the bottom) is solid walnut!

How many electronic gadgets made today will still work as well as this metronome when they are thirty some years old?

Hornmasters Extra: An Update from Robinson on the Aperture

One of the great things for Bruce and I is we hear from some of the greats of horn teaching and playing who do follow the site. The following note is from William C. Robinson and updates his thoughts on teaching the aperture, and we do thank him for permission to share this with Horn Matters readers.

Thanks so much for all the nice things you said about my book, “An Illustrated Advanced Method for French Horn Playing” in the recent Horn Matters article. When I read the article it brought back a lot of memories of how I used to teach horn. While I think that the things in the book are accurate and factual, in those days I was missing one very important point, regarding aperture control, tone and range control. Let me explain:

For several years Dale Clevenger was after me to go to see Arnold Jacobs. Dale knew that I needed something very important in my teaching and was just trying to help me. Finally, in 1977 I did go to Mr. Jacobs for some lessons and this is not an exaggeration – he changed my whole philosophy of playing, thinking and teaching – all in a matter of the first ten minutes of the first lesson.

I think all the things I wrote in my book regarding the aperture and use of it are basically correct – you do use a smaller aperture for the higher tones, etc., but the point that I had been missing all those years was this:

The aperture does change for the pitches – but you don’t make it change, and try to control it by controlling the size of the aperture. Mr. Jacobs explained it to me this way:

To play a tone – sing that tone in your head use the air properly and that tone will sound. Think the pitch, quality and sound you want and the brain (which is the greatest computer ever invented) will tell the embouchure what to do to produce that tone. You don’t try to control the embouchure by trying to control the embouchure – instead, think the pitch, use the air and the brain will tell the embouchure what to do to produce that sound.

It is all so simple and easy – and the results are very gratifying. Immediately after I understood this concept my playing was better, my teaching was better and therefore my students played better. That was the important point that I was missing when I wrote the book. It was all there, except for the most important part – sing the pitch in your head as you play the tone!!

Later I realized that I should have learned that concept 20 years earlier. In 1957 Raphael Mendez, the great trumpet artist, told me that he solfegges every tone he plays, even in the fastest cadenzas. I thought that was great – and wished that we taught solfege in our schools – but I missed the point of the concept – the same concept I learned from Arnold Jacobs 20 years later.

Since I went to Mr. Jacobs I have always taught the students to think the pitch, use the air and I have never told them to think about the embouchure at all (unless they have a basic flaw in the embouchure). The worst thing you can do is to think about the embouchure!!

Reading the articles you wrote about the book brought back so many memories of how I used to try to control the size of the aperture – and while I think the facts in book are true, I was thinking backwards. I was trying to control the aperture by thinking of the aperture instead of thinking the pitch and letting the brain tell the embouchure what to do to produce that pitch.

Reading what you wrote made me think about all that has happened during the last 35 years or so and how thankful I am that we all have the ability to keep learning and improving and most importantly not ever to stop learning!

I am so grateful to you for all that you wrote about the book and for all you are doing for horn playing and teaching and how lucky we are to have people like you who are doing so much for our art.

Cordially yours,

Bill Robinson

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From the Mailbag: The Five Valve Single B-Flat

A while back I had a question come in on the 5-valve single B-flat horn. These are still made but they are not common and were somewhat more common back in the day. As to how they sound, I have tried horns of this type and they have a lot of the sound of a double horn with the agility of a single B-flat, but in actual use might still stick out a bit in a section of double horns.

The “classic” model of this is certainly the Sansone model, developed by Lorenzo Sansone. This illustration is from the Kruspe 1930 catalog, more images from which may be accessed from this article.

What made me think of this question and this being a good time to reply briefly is the most recent video in a series put out by Siegfried’s Call is on a vintage Sansone horn of this model that they have for sale. I don’t see a way to embed the video in Horn Matters, but these instruments are seen occasionally and an interesting footnote on horns used professionally in the USA in the early 20th century.

Thoughts on a Patterson/Yamaha Horn: Day 28

It has been four weeks since my Patterson-converted Yamaha 667 arrived in a little brown truck at my doorstep. I had sent it away earlier in the summer for a major overhaul at Patterson Hornworks.

The list of upgrades was extensive – you can read about it in a previous article, The Americanization of a Yamaha –  and the horn that arrived was a vastly different animal.

It was lucky too that the horn had been well-crafted to begin with. Most of its interior ports, external braces and slides lined up as they should.

First, and perhaps most notable with the conversion is the new lead pipe.

You can faintly see the Patterson logo.

Compared to the stock lead pipe, the horn has opened up significantly. While I am a fan of resistance in a horn, the stock lead pipe was too constricting.

The sound is focused and warm with the Patterson pipe but I needed to play a little mouthpiece roulette in order to get the right feel I was looking for.

Mouthpieces

3 mouthpieces with the front runner in the pole position.

MegaMoose

The mouthpiece on the far left is a MegaMoose D6. I used this mouthpiece for about 10 years on this horn. I absolutely love the thick sound it gets, but with the new lead pipe the high range ceases to be as easy as before.

As James Boldin recently noted:

I liked what the heavier mouthpiece did for my sound, but for me I felt like I had to work just a bit too hard…”

I have a colleague who had a D8 tooled – slightly smaller – and he swears by this in combination with his Engelbert Schmid double. This might be something that I will be ordering to try out.

RB12Y and Stork C12W

My next option was the Moosewood RB12Y.  It too has a warm sound but I have finally settled into an old Stork C12W.

The “W” stands for a wide diameter rim. In my older age, this extra millimeter or two helps a great deal with keeping a fluid, flexible sound in all ranges and dynamics. While it does not have the same rich sound as the Moosewood mouthpieces, I found that adding some Moosewood DNA in the form of a stem weight made a difference.

The Moosewood Stem Weight

Weights

This circular brass ring fits on the stem of the mouthpiece and it adds some density to the mouthpiece throat. Beyond that simple description I am not exactly sure what it does, but there is a noticeable difference in sound and feel – the sound gets warmer and the feel is more focused and locked-in.

Along these lines, it wasn’t until about day 8 or so that I noticed this – an extra weight in the thumb valve.

A Patterson extra under the thumb valve cap.

Even though I had oiled this spot many times before, I did not notice it at first. Not wanting to tamper with its magic, I leave it place.

Overall impressions

The F horn side has improved significantly.
This I noticed right away – that the F-side of the horn had been liberated. Gray zones of my own fault in that range have become less gray.

The first valve
I am not sure what was done but it took me a while to become accustomed to first-valve F horn fingerings. Something had changed and my old setup was not landing on it. However, after 4 weeks I can say that this was a good thing and it has all settled into place.

Before the conversion, the first-line F was always a problematic note for me and I often resorted to the B-flat fingering. This is no longer the case.

Improved consistency in all ranges
Besides opening the horn up, this conversion has also evened it out. By this I mean that the tone and articulation is much more even and consistent throughout all chromatic and dynamic ranges.

A worthwhile investment
Of all the horns I have ever owned or remember playing this one I can honestly say is absolutely the best.

While one cannot guarantee the same results with all stock instruments, I am extremely pleased with my Patterson/Yamaha conversion. For any horn player wanting to improve their stock horn – for under $1500 – this is a worthwhile investment to give strong consideration.

Hornmasters: Farkas and Schuller on Jaw Position

Jaw Position. Seems like a simple topic, and it is the next topic to address in this series looking at classic horn texts.

Two different approaches

Even a brief look at publications on horn playing will reveal to the reader that there are two distinct approaches to jaw position presented. One approach I will call for clarity a “square” approach and it is the approach advocated by Farkas. The other approach I will call “downstream” which lines up with the terminology used in the teaching of other brass instruments. Most published sources that get into the topic describe one approach or the other.

Farkas: my approach is the correct one

In The Art of Brass Playing Farkas certainly recognized that his concept of jaw position was very central to his approach to an embouchure, and he also very likely recognized that his approach stood in some contrast to the approach advocated by other brass teachers such as in the horn world for example Gunther Schuller. Farkas wrote,

To sum it up, I believe that the air-column must continue in a straight line through the mouth, the lips, and finally the horn. The only way this can be accomplished is by aligning the front teeth, and consequently the lips, by the proper amount of forward thrust of the jaw.

While I know of no evidence that Farkas is reacting directly to Schuller (his book Horn Technique was published the same year as The Art of Brass Playing) Farkas was again clearly aware of this alternate method. Farkas emphasizes the correctness of his approach by illustrating his approach and the approach advocated by Schuller, labeling his own approach “RIGHT” and the alternate approach “WRONG.”

The big picture I would put out there is that actually, if you consult the MRI horn videos as I have in these 2016 updates to this series, most horn players use an approach closer to that of Schuller. I am hesitant to say Farkas is totally wrong, but an extreme square setup won’t work.

Schuller: no, my approach is correct

Moving on to Schuller for his take on this, he wrote that to negotiate the full range of the horn involves

…the simultaneous interrelated application of four procedures: for ascending pitches, slight pressure is applied on the upper lip, the lip opening is made smaller by a proportionate inward and upward movement of the jaw and lower teeth…, the lip muscles are proportionately tightened, and the air stream is directed increasingly downward and closer to the mouthpiece rim…. For descending pitches, slight pressure is applied on the lower lip, the lip opening is made larger by a proportionate downward and outward movement of the jaw and lower teeth…, the lip muscles are proportionately relaxed, and the air stream is directed more horizontally at a point in the mouthpiece cup closer to the bore…. It can not be emphasized sufficiently that all these movements, especially those which involve pressure on the lips, must be moderate and in proportion to the interval change desired.

Schuller includes illustrations (pages 20-21) that further clarify his concept of jaw position and the direction of the air stream in the mouthpiece.

A resource that presents the big picture

Most players use an embouchure setup that is somewhere between the extremes of the very square, Farkas embouchure and the very downstream approach seen in Schuller.

In relation to that point, in his final treatise that addresses the topic, A Photographic Study of 40 Virtuoso Horn Players’ Embouchures, Farkas documents both types of embouchure accurately; in this work especially note his annotations as to the direction of the air stream of the high and low embouchures. Students don’t always like looking at this book (still available from Wind Music), but it is a classic and does give you one of the clearest views of the big picture — if you know what to look for.

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