Home Blog Page 5

Sabbatical horn update: improved details

Back in the spring of 2021 I was on sabbatical from Arizona State, and, as reported here in Horn Matters, my project involved horn building. One of the three main projects was rebuilding a vintage Mirafone single horn into an older, Schmidt-inspired design, one that could also be set up in F or G. The horn as it existed in 2021 is described in more detail here.

It came out well, but there were some details that bothered me, and the E on the top space was rather unstable. Consulting with Rick Seraphinoff later, he suggested a leadpipe change might help (as I had used the original Mirafone pipe). Besides that, there were a couple bracing things I didn’t like and also the slide tube ends were “plain.”

Also, I more recently got inspired by a Kruspe single horn, described further here. I realized that I could bring my Mirafone project horn to a very similar design, and it gave me a clear model on how to rework the bracing.

Updates

Which brings us to March of 2025. This fall I got back into working on this horn, tore it down partially and made/bent a new leadpipe using a Seraphinoff blank.

Backing up a step, the starting point horn was a 1960s Mirafone. When I obtained it, it was a classic “parts horn,” it was missing key parts of the valves. My idea was to use a Yamaha valve section and redesign the body to represent a horn from the early 20th century. I used what was the original Mirafone Eb slide to be the new main slide (the F slide became the G slide), and rebuilt the body to follow photos of instruments with this type of looped main slide.

The underlying Mirafone horn was well built. The bell is of the “hand hammered” type with a V insert, and it has that beautiful nickel silver garland. With other nice details, such as the thumb ring and beautifully made braces.

Details

There were some details I was not happy with though. One key missing detail from my rebuild was that the slide tube ends were plain.

Modern horns normally have slide ends that are rolled out from the tubing itself, although this Yamaha valve section had plain tube ends. But older horns typically have turned pieces which were soldered on. The Mirafone had those turned details, nicely done. But their build quality was a bit too good, as they would not come off. They were made as a tight press fit and then soldered on. I finally figured out a way of cutting the original Mirafone slides ends from the inside (with a jeweler’s saw) so that I could heat and crimp the slide slightly, enough to release the nice turnings. They really help the horn have a classic look.

This final view from the back shows several more details. First, there is the new leadpipe. In my original rebuilding the horn was rather sharp and needed a long slide pull, and with additional calculations I figured that I should make it as long as possible with the blank. Turns out I made it a little too long and had to cut down the main slide slightly. But that helped the overall look, the proportions of the horn are better, and this length of pipe fit the horn body well.

There are two final key details that I’d like to point out, both of which will require zooming in on the photo to see. One is that there is now an angled brace from a first valve slide up to the main slide. This is done in the manner seen on the Kruspe horn mentioned earlier, and hopefully has improved how the horn plays. The look is much better than what I did originally at least. The other detail I’d like to highlight is something Mirafone did originally — look closely at the brace on the bell. Mirafone made it in the shape of a heart, a nice touch that should be seen more often.

How does it play?

It does play better than before for sure, and has a very nice, rich sound. In particular the poor E at the top of the staff is better, but on the other hand, the slot for it is really narrow. That said, I like the slurs and intonation is quite consistent. It’s fun to play, too (horn playing can be fun!). All the work was certainly worth it.

With this all said, this sabbatical horn is now officially done. I have no further updates planned, and it was a great project. On to the next one.

Fundamentals 16. Muted horn: tonal control, responses, projection, noiseless manipulation of mute

Mutes?!? It is very interesting to me that Douglas Hill included in his list of fundamentals (found in his Collected Thoughts book) a special place for muted horn.

Is it hard? Did it used to be?

I tend personally to think of muted playing as being easy. Anyone disagree? On horn I don’t think of it being any special challenge – at least now.

I think where it came in as a fundamental to study more was with a generation of horn teacher older than me and before that. Right now, we are at such a golden age for buying horn mutes. When I was in college in the 1980s, it was a bit different world. Unless you were OK with a Stone Lined mute, you had very few options you could easily buy. There were some great mutes out there (Rittich, for example, which is what most mute makers copy today), but it was not like you could go online and buy one from a dealer like you can now.

But I’ll add here also, for any of your friends that play a different brass instrument, especially trumpet, they probably have a complex about playing muted (and they own at least six mutes). My theory why we as horn players don’t have that same complex is that we normally have a hand in the bell and it doesn’t feel that different — if you have any decent, modern mute in your bell.

What makes a bad horn mute?

To my mind a bad horn mute has a poor low range and it may generally feel unstable. If yours is like that, try some other mute. It’s not that hard to find a good mute today.

Tunable?

One great feature of the better horn mutes is they are tunable. You need this feature, as the way you use your hand in the bell will differ somewhat from other players, and your bell size will also impact pitch level of the mute. You should be able to play your mute with no concern of it being out of tune.

Balance in ensemble

Once you have a mute that plays well and easily at pitch, the other factor to think about, which you may need to consider seriously, is balance in ensemble.

Speaking generally, if you have a similar mute to other horn players in your section, you will balance well with them in orchestra or band. Some are louder and softer, brighter and darker. You may need to experiment to match in your section better.

However, in brass quintet, you might want to reconsider your preferred mute choice. A standard, “orchestral” mute sound from a horn player won’t match a muted trumpet or trombone very well. In my own case, in brass quintet, I used to use my Stone Lined mute instead of the higher dollar one, as the tone color better matched the sound of a trombone mute.

Mute in the trunk of your car

Finally, I always mention that you should keep a Stone Lined mute in the back of your car, just in case you forget your preferred mute at a gig. Better to have a mute than have no mute at all!

Update: For a podcast on the topic of this and the previous two fundamentals see Episode 64 of the Horn Notes Podcast (direct link, but find it anywhere you get podcasts).

When the series continues, the topic is a major fundamental for horn, transpositions.

Continue in the Fundamentals series.

Fundamentals 15. Stopped horn: tonal control, responses, projection, F and B-flat fingerings

Continuing our series on fundamentals (using, as prompts, the list of fundamentals found on pages 92-93 of the Douglas Hill book of Collected Thoughts), is stopped horn a fundamental? Certainly!

The three rules

Well over 20 years ago I posted an article about this in Horn Articles Online, “Understanding Stopped and Muted Horn and Right-Hand Position.” There I wrote the following, very central to the topic of playing stopped horn:

Stopped notes are an effect unique to the horn. The basic rule often given for fingering stopped notes on the horn is to finger the note a half step below the note you want to play, close the bell tightly with the right hand, and play only on the F horn for intonation.

As you slowly close the hand in the bell the pitch will get lower. However, once the bell is TIGHTLY closed, the pitch will rise or appear to rise by approximately a half step. This is not actually what is happening acoustically (interested music educators should read the discussion in Scott Whitener, A Complete Guide to Brass, third edition, page 57) but a practical way to think of it as a performer or educator is that you are effectively shortening the horn by “cutting off” the end of the bell with the hand. It should be noted though, again, that this is not what is actually happening acoustically–actually you are lowering the next higher harmonic to a half step above the harmonic you are playing–but the result is the same as in the suggested, practical method.

Reading it now, the angle I took in that was certainly more aimed at a music educator. But the three basic rules are there; tightly close the bell, finger a half step lower, and use only F horn fingerings. This will work well with a stop mute and for a fair percentage of horn players.

But there is an issue of hand size and your bell, which might lead you to look at alternate fingerings to get pitch under control.

B-flat horn fingerings? Flat harmonics?

Turning back to the old Horn Articles Online article (which is no longer online),

If you play stopped horn on the F side of the double horn pitch will generally be close to being in tune, raised ½ step above the open notes. If you play stopped on the B-flat horn though, many notes will be nearly 3/4 of a step higher–in other words, badly out of tune. Some naturally flat fingerings are however quite usable on the B-flat side of the double horn; experimentation is very much in order when in doubt.

Here’s where I give away a secret for the Saint-Saens Morceau and other works

For smaller hands and bigger bells, stopped notes are likely to be rather sharp. Good teaching involves problem solving, and at some point early in my years at ASU I came up with the idea of using the harmonic that would be a flat B-flat as the basis of fingerings. The year the Women’s Brass Conference was at ASU I gave a presentation about it as well.

Backing up a step, another way to say this is this. Instead of playing a B-natural in the staff with the standard B-flat F horn fingering (first valve), instead play it open which is a quarter step low. For some players it is just magically in tune, totally solves the intonation issue. Try this:

They are strange looking fingerings but all based on the flat B-flat harmonic and will likely be much better in tune for many players. There are many stopped passages right in this same range that can benefit from taking this approach.

The other very useful flat high harmonic, for Gliere and other works

Besides the “flat Bb” harmonic just described, the other really useful harmonic is high A fingered T0. It is flat enough to solve some higher range stopped issues. Here’s a couple versions of how to play the end of the second movement of the Gliere with that harmonic.

Stopped notes in Mahler, etc.

This is one of my favorite horn memes. Mahler did love some stopped horn! It needs to be really loud.

For this type of excerpt, you won’t find proper balance in ensemble unless you use a stop mute, likely at more or less your maximum volume. On paper it looks like it should cut through the texture, but reality is it won’t.

Final questions to ask: Is it loud, or is it soft? Present, or distant?

All stopped notes are not created equally. Some need to be very loud and with as much bite as possible, but many need to be very soft and distant, like an echo. Use your good judgement to put them in the right place. With a final tip being, for solo works on a recital especially, it is really difficult to gauge if it is loud enough or not, this is something you have to check with another set of ears in a dress rehearsal or sound check.

When the series returns the topic is a related one, muted horn.

Continue reading the Fundamentals series.

Fundamentals 14. Lip trills: fluency, control at all dynamics, knowledge of all fingerings, also lip tremolos

Lip trills are a must for any hornist playing on the level to perform a Mozart concerto movement.

Spoiler alert: Lip trills are easier on the natural horn

Before getting to the topic of how to work on lip trills, it is important to note that, speaking very generally lip trills are easier to play on the natural horn. Especially so on one that is reasonably authentic with a mouthpiece of a design that is plausible for the 19th century or before. Why? A period instrument is less “slotty,” more flexible. Lip trills are very idiomatic for the instrument of the time of Mozart, and are more of a challenge for us on modern horns today.

For those that teach: Don’t project your issues on your students

There is a quote in the Douglas Hill book (which is the source of our list of fundamentals driving this series) in the chapter on teaching, related to his teacher demonstrating a trill (page 67). It is an important point to consider:

My first teacher … kept his attitudes about the difficulties of the horn to himself. While in high school, I was learning a Mozart concerto and needed to know how to play a lip trill. He demonstrated one with very little fanfare, and I returned the next week performing lip trills with ease, which is the only way they can be produced.

PSA: Use a fingering that will work for whole step trills

The main thing is to understand the harmonic series enough to find a fingering where both notes of your whole step trill can be played on the same fingering.

What about half step trills?

Those are always fingered! Yay!

I’m not a fan of the “Kopprasch” exercise

Honestly, I think trills are over taught. It may be a function of how lessons work. Something comes up, teacher assigns exercises, etc.

One of the main exercises we have all tried is the one in the Kopprasch book. I don’t think it is a very good exercise, it ties you up in knots. Instead, you are better off with a different approach

Cross train to build the skill

The most effective way to learn trills is by working on fast lip flexibility exercises. I have some favorites I give to students, there are good ones in The Brass Gym, etc. But overall, you are best not practicing trills but to instead practice fast flexibility studies. This also may be getting at why Hill mentions lip tremolos; those end up being really fast flexibility studies, and set you up for playing trills.

When the series returns the topic is another favorite, stopped horn

Continue reading Fundamentals series

Vienna Horns, part III: Their musical world and more

A year ago, I started a short series of posts related to the Vienna horn, which was left incomplete. This final article of the series focuses on the topic of where the Vienna horn fits in the musical world of the 19th century and what materials you might use for practice today.

Composers and the Vienna horn

When writing a work, composers have the sound of the various instruments in mind, and especially so the instruments used at the time by the players in their area.

The key thing is that Austrian players have used horns with Vienna valves from the time of adoption of valved horns in the middle of the nineteenth century — and some leading players continue today. Going back a step, however, that same general type of sound has been maintained since the time of Beethoven and before on the natural horn, as early Vienna horns would have been made with the same bell profiles and tapers as the natural horns in use at the time.

Thus, the music associated with any composer associated with Vienna in the 19th century would be highly appropriate to perform on a Vienna horn. This would include especially the music of Beethoven, Brahms, Bruckner, and Mahler.

Of course, there are many recordings of works of this type performed on Vienna horn, and you can play anything on a Vienna horn if you wish. The video below, as of this writing, having close to 3 million views:

Backing up a step, what about Strauss, etc.?

Well yes, for sure there is a long history of Viennese performances of works of Strauss, Wagner, etc. Pretty much anything from the 19th century is well suited to the Vienna horn.

For a great idea of how to approach works on the Vienna horn, please see this series on Horn Matters by guest author Nicholas Smith:

Any study materials highly suited to the Vienna horn?

From my context here in the USA, as an enthusiast of vintage single horns, I feel anything by Schantl is a very appropriate study material to use. Mentioned also in part II of this series, Josef Schantl (1842-1902) was Principal Horn of the Imperial and Royal Court Opera and the Vienna Philharmonic, and has also been credited with founding the Vienna Waldhornverein. Among many significant performances he performed on the premieres of Brahms second and third symphonies, and also the third and eighth symphonies of Bruckner.

More importantly for us today, he had a series of study materials (published posthumously) that are highly suited to the Vienna horn. His Große theortisch-praktische Horn-Schule was published in four volumes in 1903. Probably the best-known portion today in the USA is volume III, which was reprinted in 1941 in abridged form as Preparatory Melodies to Solo Work, edited by Max P. Pottag. Some players also make much use of what was published as volume II and has been reprinted as the Grand Theoretical and Practical Method for the Valve Horn (by Wind Music). I also enjoy playing from his volume IV, which was reprinted by Wind Music as Kopprasch, 90 Etudes — a vastly different Kopprasch edition than the one people typically use, breathing new life into these venerable etudes.

At least that is what I’ve begun playing Vienna horn lately. Over the holiday break I do plan to play it more, with a goal of getting more used to the higher resistance of the instrument I have available to me (compared to my Germanic rotary valve single horns). Looking forward to some classic horn sounds in my practice.

BONUS: How do Vienna valves work?

I was interested to see a drawing from my dissertation recently pass through Instagram, seen here (and also found online in this article). When I was putting together my dissertation, I could not find a drawing that showed what I wanted exactly, and I leaned on my experience in a junior high drafting class (!!) to put this drawing together. I think it still pretty clearly shows how the double pistons of a Vienna valve work. The lasting interest in Vienna horns shows the success of the design, one that every horn player can aspire to at least briefly experience the classic sound and feel of this iconic instrument.

Return to the beginning of the Vienna Horn series

Fundamentals 13. Concentration: ability to mentally focus for long periods

Concentration is not a topic touched on directly by many horn teachers. However, the ability to focus is a key fundamental for effective practice and successful performances, highly worthy of inclusion as number 13 on the list of fundamentals put together by Douglas Hill and presented in his Collected Thoughts book.

Are we are “wired” differently?

Looking at the French horn world generally first, the ability to concentrate is an interesting topic.

There are probably personality types that are attracted to the horn. One thing I’ve observed is that good horn players are different than the average person or even average brass player. How so? It’s like we have a personality flaw, we could have done something easier than play horn, but here we are. Doing something that is hard, day after day, enjoying on some level the challenge, but also on some other level somewhat beat down by the challenge.

Thinking of myself, I know that in some situations I personally can really dial it in and concentrate, and in other situations my mind seemingly goes all over the place. Probably that is part of the human condition, with different people having differing abilities in terms of concentration. Fortunately, when I’m playing horn I know I have a very strong ability to concentrate.

The importance of taking mental breaks

Before getting directly to concentration, there is a tactic you should consider – the tactic of not counting long rests.

What? Yes, this sounds risky. But you can’t concentrate constantly in every piece on every concert, you’ll burn yourself out.

In many pieces, especially orchestral, there are long sections of rest that end at easily recognizable structural points. Don’t count those long rests, just be aware of when the next structural point is and start counting again then. Write in extra cues if it helps. With a little practice this tactic is not nearly as risky as it sounds, and your brain will appreciate the break.

Building your ability to concentrate

Which brings me back to our main topic; how do you build up your ability to concentrate? Looking around online, I see mostly very generic advice. Although, if you are eating badly, not sleeping enough, etc. you have plenty of reasons to not be able to concentrate very well. Keeping healthy routines will help.

I’d suggest strongly that if you want to build up your ability to concentrate, look into sports psychology resources. There are tactics to bring your focus into the exact present moment, not on what just happened or what you hope to do shortly. I know personally I found tactics presented in The Inner Game of Tennis (a classic book on sports psychology) to be helpful with building my concentration and focus before auditions and for general performance.

One thing I often mention to students is at one point, while not that into baseball, I picked up a couple books on the psychology of pitching. Professional baseball pitchers in particular, they have to concentrate at an extremely high level in a high stress, high distraction environment. Lots of money rides on their ability to focus and perform at their peak! A whole industry exists around pitching and also around all sorts of other professional sports activities. The materials you can find on these topics are often very focused and practical, and can be easily translated to horn.

If you have never read The Inner Game of Tennis, more thoughts on this publication may be found here. A highly recommended read!

Episode 63 of the Horn Notes Podcast looks at the topics of Accuracy, Endurance, and Concentration. Download it where you get podcasts, or listen online at this link. 

When we continue the topic will be a fun one: lip trills.

Continue reading the Fundamentals series

Fundamentals 12. Endurance: ease of production at all levels of fatigue in all ranges

Sometimes I think of batteries when I think about endurance on the horn. Batteries run down with use, and as they deplete the energy level produced is less and less. Similarly, there are only so many notes you can get your chops to produce before they run out of juice. We all know the feeling.

Building chops for endurance

As I’ve done now several times in this series, I’ll start with a story to illustrate the topic.

I started taking professional auditions in earnest after finishing my MM, and made finals for several jobs. Which was great, but I was not winning a job. One of my personal conclusions was I felt my chops were running out of gas in the finals.

I went back to school to work on my Doctorate at IU, and my first semester there I did my second major embouchure change (having also changed my embouchure as an undergrad). This time, my goal was to get the mouthpiece a bit higher so that it was better supported by the skin above my upper lip, rather than resting only on my fairly heavy upper lip. It was with that embouchure setting that I eventually won the Third Horn position in Nashville.

Fast forward, in Nashville I still felt my endurance could be better, and I stared doing some Caruso studies. It was like “weight lifting” for my chops, and it was helpful. I had some strong chops going.

Fast forward a few more years, and I’m teaching at Arizona State. I’m still feeling OK about my endurance and chops, but then I made a trip back to Bloomington and my teacher, Mike Hatfield, had photos of my IU embouchure that had been taken by Farkas in one of my very few lessons with him. I was kind of shocked, my embouchure had slipped lower over many years to between embouchure #2 and #3 (the IU change being #3). I briefly tried to change it further, back to the #3 embouchure in the photo, and realized that was just a terrible idea and left things as they were. To this day I still play on embouchure #2.5.

There are things you can change

Which is all to say, you can alter several things with a goal of building endurance. Mouthpiece placement and equipment choices can be part of it, but also how you train your lips and how smart you are about how you manage your playing from day to day.

Ease of production at all levels of fatigue, or, playing smarter not harder

Returning to the prompt from the Hill book (this series is based on a list of fundamentals from Hill), playing mostly third horn for a number of years is a taxing thing. I leaned on maintaining healthy routines and I knew the value of rest and pacing.

Pro players think in terms of the number of services per day or per week. You will never have more than two services a day in a full-time playing position, and there are days off built into the schedule. But sometimes, especially in the busy time before Christmas, you will have a number of three service days to contend with. It can be done, but you really have to plan and be careful with your chops.

One bottom line being that there are only so many notes you can play in a day, and you need to be fresh enough to play the important ones well. Plan ahead. Be smart. If it hurts, you have pushed things too far, and will need some recovery time. Build lighter days into your schedule, and take a day off sometimes.

But sometimes there is no way around being tired at the end of a long concert. I recall one series in Nashville in particular, the final work was Brahms 3. If you know the third horn part, on the final chords you are holding an E on the top space for ages. I remember so vividly the thought I had playing it — “I’m not falling off the last note!!” I was using extra pressure and willpower to hold it up. Fortunately, I never fell off it, having paced myself carefully enough during the week.

An assistant can really help

Related, I’ve also played plenty of first horn, and an assistant is so helpful.

If you are not very up on the topic, I have a print article on the topic, published in The Horn Call 34, no. 2 (February, 2004). Be sure to talk with your teachers and observe other players, but the following excerpt gives some basic guidelines most would agree with.

In general there are four types of passages that I look to give to the assistant horn when I am playing principal horn:

  • Passages closely aligned with the trumpets. This is especially common in Classical literature where the first horn and first trumpet are in octaves.
  • Passages where the first and third horns are doubled. Unison tutti passages are great places to lay off on first for a moment or longer.
  • Passages before major solos. The classic example is the end of movement one of Tchaikovsky, Symphony No. 5, where the first horn should rest for most of the page before movement two. Even for less extended solos I personally find it of great help to insert even a very short rest before exposed passages.
  • “Footballs,” long strings of whole notes (or similar) when not overly exposed. Some “pass offs” from the first horn to the assistant can be of great help.

In all of these situations it is essential for the principal and assistant to match in terms of volume and general style. It is also very important for the principal horn to have a clear sense of where the first part is doubled down the section.

In short, if you don’t use the assistant effectively you are setting yourself up for potential failure. They are a very important member of the section and of great value to you if you are principal horn.

For a more specific example, I shared this musical example and text in my Playing High Horn book as well.

While assistant horn markings will always be very individualized, the following is an example of the opening page of Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7 with assistant markings. Try the first horn passages with and without the assistant; the passages covered by the assistant horn will certainly give the principal horn more freedom to play the conclusion of this work with greater abandon and better accuracy.

When the series of fundamentals continues the topic is concentration.

Continue reading the Fundamentals series

Revisiting a Geyer single horn

During my sabbatical in the spring of 2021 I rebuilt four horns of interesting designs, the third of those being a Geyer single F. The basic story on that horn was I was able to buy the body of a Geyer single F with no bell (!) and not the original leadpipe. For more on this story, start here:

Fast forward to early this year. The horn played OK, yes, but (as it came to me with no bell and a very damaged lead pipe) I had used King bell and a Yamaha lead pipe. I wanted to make it better.

I contacted natural horn maker Richard Seraphinoff about getting a blank for a more appropriate lead pipe, and besides that blank, I was extremely lucky to locate something else – an orphan Geyer bell that could complete this horn. It was not in great condition, with many patches, but matched the horn body perfectly.

The finished project is below, but be sure to read on!

Patches, patches, and more patches

It has been said that a much-loved vintage horn will have patches. The horn body and the Geyer bell when they got to me both had holes to deal with and patches from prior repairs. In the original rebuild I had to make several patches, and I do pride myself in making nice, artistic patches. In this second rebuild, I added yet more. Everything that was leaking or looked likely to leak was patched with the horn body apart for better work. You can only see some of them in the photos. Why so many holes?

Seamed tubing

Other than the inner and outer valve slides the horn, which are seamless tubing, the rest of the horn was made with seamed tubing.

While it is pretty universal today, the process of making seamless tubing was not invented until 1885. I’d need to study it more, but it seems that for brass instrument construction seamless tubing was not that common before the 1930s. Most likely anything prewar would more typically have seamed tubing, rolled from flat sheet.

In this horn body, a number of cracks have opened up along the seams. There were patches on the horn before I got to it, and I left those alone, but clearly they have to do with either open seams or damage. Also, the hand guard on the bell is placed oddly more toward the bell than necessary, I suspect hiding some significant dent work or damage.

Other miscellaneous fixes

Besides bending and finishing the lead pipe blank (2″ shorter than the one that came on the horn; the pitch level is great now), a big fix, for me, was I made a close replica of a missing brace between the valve section and the main slide using Yamaha parts. You don’t notice it unless looking closely, which was my goal. In the photo above, with the horn in progress, the new brace is connected to a third valve slide. Witness marks showed me where it needed to be.

The bell brace, lead pipe brace, and pinky ring are not Geyer parts but are vintage and similar to what he would have used.

In all cases, I tried to do my very best work (I’m a hobbyist repairman, not a pro) but also aimed to not over-repair anything. The horn still shows its age, as it should.

How old is it? Who was it made for?

There are people out there with more expertise than me in dating Geyer horns. I’m guessing the body and bell are both 1930s era, pretty certainly pre-WWII. There is no serial number present.

The design is based on a design used by C. F. Schmidt. The “Eb crook” main slide is not an Eb crook, the horn stands in F. I feel that single F horns with this type of main slide tend to play the best.

As to who it was made for, I’m thinking it was a student model, if for no reason other than it was made clearly for a player with small hands. But Geyer being Geyer, he was hard wired to make a good horn no matter the age of the intended player.

How does it play?

It really plays very well, I’m very pleased with the final results. While I’m sure it could benefit from a valve job, even without one the scale is surprisingly even, it’s nicely responsive, and the tone is what you might expect from a Geyer horn.

With the Geyer done, I have more projects planned for when I have time over the break, including work on one of the other Sabbatical project horns. More on that another day.

Fundamentals 11. Accuracy: initial attacks at all dynamics, consistency hearing entrance notes and intervals

0

The proverbial elephant in the room in horn playing is accuracy. In the prompt from Douglas Hill (this series is based on a list of fundamentals found in his book) wisely focuses on two aspects of a huge topic: initial attacks and also hearing intervals.

48 Ways to Miss Lots of Notes

Actually, there are many more than 48** ways to miss notes (**the reference is of course to the 48 Etudes of Verne Reynolds, which contain many accuracy challenges – his seemingly favorite phrase to say in my lessons was “one more time for accuracy.”).

Not long ago I was working on a series of articles on accuracy – it starts here – and I’ll get back to that series sometime, after this fundamentals series is done. But a premise of that series was that there are hundreds of things that impact accuracy to varying degrees. So many things that you can’t (and should not) focus on all of them – reality being you have to pick a couple things as your personal points of focus, and attacks and hearing intervals are very good choices for focus.

Initial attacks

There is a lot to be said for having a consistent way of setting up your attacks. Having a method of breathing/setting/playing that happens all in one motion is essential.

One of the most recently completed articles in the accuracy series was “Accuracy Encyclopedia: F is for First Note Accuracy.” In it I lay out several important points, but the main one is to have a smooth and continuous motion that goes from your inhale to when you start the note. There can’t be a hitch in this cycle, as illustrated below (from the Gunther Schuller book).

Hearing entrance notes and intervals

Mentally hearing what you want to play is also extremely important, although you can hear exactly what you want to play and still miss it. Still, it sets you up better if you can hear it, and I touched on that in another of my articles from the accuracy series, “Accuracy Encyclopedia: Audiation and Autopilot.”

What about teaching accuracy?

To close this installment, if you have a copy of the Hill book of Collected Thoughts, turn to chapter 9, “High Expectations.” For me this is a fascinating (but short) chapter that gets at the challenges of teaching accuracy.

It is a topic complicated by the expectations of composers and conductors, which can be both low and high. A consequence of all this is the development, for the player, of “a mindset of fear,” one that “turns on itself and becomes a greater problem than the inherent idiosyncrasies of the horn.”

Where the horn teacher comes in is that we have a lot of power to create accuracy problems if we don’t teach the topic wisely. Hill states it this way: “Do not pass on your prejudices or your own problems to your students.” Reynolds hammered away on accuracy in my lessons back in the day, but I don’t think it a very effective teaching technique. Horn students typically have a harsh inner critic anyway — and, as teacher you can, as Hill says, “block out the joy of making music” by how you approach this topic. Teaching accuracy has no one correct approach, but it is one of the very most important ones to address, worthy of careful thought.

When the series continues the topic is Endurance.

Continue reading the Fundamentals series

Review: Two Gig Bags

0

Among my activities I like to work on horns, continuing the type of projects I was doing during my sabbatical (more here). I enjoy especially bringing horns back to life, not heavily restored but certainly playable and in much better shape.

Recent projects I’ve been working on include three vintage horns (I’ll post about them in a few weeks) that won’t fit in any conventional, modern case. I have cases I can use with them but they are smelly, and my wife (wisely) banished them from the house. What to do? Eventually I went shopping for gig bags.

It is also helpful to me, with multiple horns in the house, if horn cases look different. I settled in on these two gig bags.

Don’t you mean “dent bags?”

Yes, gig bags have a deserved bad reputation, and really you should use a hard case of some type. Also, for sure you should not fly with a fixed bell gig bag, the risk of damage to your horn is much too high. But for some out there they still make sense in relation to unusual horns, storage situations, etc.

The Gard Gig Bag

I ordered the two gig bags the same day from different vendors, and the first to arrive was the Gard bag. I want to compliment Houghton Horns for the quick shipping and that it came in a very substantial box with no damage at all!

This case has several big positives

  • Similar look and feel to vintage Giardinelli
  • Metal clips and reinforcements on the bag
  • Straps with metal parts
  • Plenty of padding
  • Feels very substantial; could be used on a daily basis if necessary

On the negative side, if it is a negative, the case has “…Gard’s patented mid-bag suspension system to provide ultimate protection for your horn.” This became a negative as I could not get a horn in the case with the system in place, so I had to take it out. The three project horns I needed cases for are all large wrap and “fat” due to their design. I believe for a smaller horn it would work well. For me another “negative” was the pouch on the side was too small for the Eb crook which I needed to store with a particular horn. So that horn went in this next case.

ProTec “Explorer” Gig Bag

This is my fourth ProTec case, and I’ve been happy with the previous three.

The gig bag is set up so the horn fits in the opposite direction (up and down) as the Gard case. The mouthpiece receiver is “up” on this case, and “down” on the Gard.

I’ll go to the positives first; this bag has plenty of room for that Eb crook I needed to store with a horn. Tons of room for music storage, mutes, etc. And the horn I needed a case to store it in is really light, so some of the negatives below are mitigated, but you might want to consider them carefully. Chief among them,

  • Plastic clips on the gig bag
  • Straps with plastic parts

It is some years ago now, but I had a plastic part on a case strap fail, and a pretty valuable horn hit the ground. (It was, for disclosure, a different brand and it was literally 20 years ago). The price for this gig bag is really nice but the presence of plastic parts (no matter how solid they may be), combined with the tendency that people have to load cases up with too much music and stuff, I’d be very hesitant to recommend the use of this case as your main case.

Since I mentioned shipping on the Gard case, I’ll share that this case came from a different vendor in a plastic bag rather than a box. It was not damaged in transit, but was at more risk for sure.

Bottom line

I’m happy with both cases overall. It’s great having those horns in the house in these nice gig bags instead of the garage in their old smelly cases. If a gig bag makes sense for you, do check these options out.